Mandalay's wise guys
July 2012
Burma is undergoing a sea change… Aung San Suu Kyi’s party claimed victory in almost every seat contested in the recent historic election. From here on, the most beautiful untouched country in all South-East Asia will have droves of travellers busy knocking on its doors, not least for the temples of Bagan and the glories of the Ngapali Riviera. [...]

The best (and worst) of 2011
Winter 2011-2012
After months of trying to get a visa into Myanmar, I finally found myself walking through the airport in Rangoon. It was raining outside but I was euphoric. I had long tried to visit Myanmar -- but even when applying for a tourist visa this is tough for a journalist. [...]

One step ahead: Bagan, Burma
September 2011
The overnight sleeper from Rangoon rocks like a teacup in a storm -- but it’s worth it. Leaving city sprawl behind, the train passes through paddy fields towards dusty scrubland studded with palms. Windows are flung wide open -- joy! Women sell samosas from the tracks; kids call out for sweets and dollars, and cows laze under mango trees. [...]

Beautiful and damned
July 16, 2011
Following the advice of Aung San Suu Kyi, Burma's pro-democracy leader, Michelle Jana Chan travels around under her own steam. Mya rubbed drops of water into the tree bark to form a yellow paste. She smeared it on my forehead and cheeks, finishing with the flourish of a dab at the end of my nose. The children jostling around me looked on, giggling. [...]