Condé Nast Traveller - The Comeback: Nepal
February 2016

Less than a year after suffering a double earthquake, Nepal is showing renewed spirit. Not only is the country reopening repaired tracks, but championing routes such as the Natural Annapurna Trekking Trail, which avoids just-built roads and allows trekkers — with relief and nostalgia — to return to the Annapurna Circuit and Tilicho lake. There’s also a beautiful new Khopra Danda hike on tranquil ridges via Mardi Himal — and not a Salomon boot in sight. Accommodation doesn’t have to be tea houses or basic camping in the Annapurna Conservation Area, Ker and Downey has homely lodges. You can also have a hot shower with World Expeditions, which is creating base camps in Annapurna modelled on its existing Everest ones — tents you can stand up in, with seriously comfy beds and proper loos. For a longer, wilder and more remote expedition, KE Adventure Travel’s whopping 23-day trip goes through Lumba Sumba La, east of Everest, where you might spot red panda or snow leopard. But the thrills aren’t just at high altitude. In the Terai lowlands, Taj Safaris soon-to-open Meghauli Jungle Lodge at Chitwan National Park will take adventurers on elephant-back safaris tracking tigers and canoeing down the Rapt river.